How to authenticate Levi's

About Levi's Authentication

Levi Strauss and Co. patented the riveted work trouser in 1873, making Levi's 501 the oldest continuously produced pair of jeans in history. The brand is one of the most widely counterfeited in the apparel category globally. The 501, 511, and 514 fits are the most replicated models. Authentication relies on several distinct branded elements — the Red Tab, the Arcuate pocket stitch, the back patch, and button stampings — each of which has a documented history that changes by production era.

Key authentication signals

• Red Tab on the right back pocket. The Red Tab is sewn to the upper-left edge of the right back pocket with its left side stitched into the pocket seam. Pre-1971 tabs read "LEVI'S" in all capitals with a capital E ("Big E"); from 1971 onward the text changed to "LEVI'S" with a lowercase "e." The tab must be woven — not printed — and the letter outlines are formed by the weave structure, not by ink. On counterfeits the tab is screen-printed or uses an incorrect font weight, and the stitching attaches the tab flat rather than looped.
• Arcuate stitching on back pockets. The Arcuate — a curved double-arch stitch — was trademarked by Levi's in 1943. On authentic jeans the two arcs are symmetrical left-to-right and meet at a small diamond-shaped intersection point at the centre of the pocket. Thread is orange or amber. On counterfeits the arcs are asymmetric, the intersection point is a blunt cross rather than a diamond, or the thread colour is too yellow or too red.
• Back patch material and text. Modern 501s use a Jacron patch (a durable paper-polyester composite resembling leather). The patch reads "LEVI STRAUSS and CO. — SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. — ORIGINAL RIVETED" with the two-horse graphic. Text is sharp and evenly embossed; the horses are detailed with distinct anatomy. On counterfeits the embossing is shallow, the horses lack anatomical detail, and the word "ORIGINAL" is often misspelled or absent.
• Button-fly stamps. Each button on a button-fly 501 is stamped with "LEVI'S" or "LS" on its face. The stamp is deep and precise. On fakes the stamp is shallow, uses incorrect text, or the buttons are plain.
• Care label and fabric composition. Authentic Levi's care labels list the fabric composition, country of manufacture, and a numeric style code. The style code for a 501 begins with "005" followed by additional digits. Counterfeit care labels use incorrect style codes or replicate a known authentic code across multiple fake pairs.

Serial and reference numbers

Levi's does not use a per-garment unique serial number. The style number on the interior care label identifies the cut and fit, and can be cross-referenced against official Levi's product records. The back patch carries a lot number on some production runs. Vintage pairs (pre-1971) are authenticated by a combination of Big E tab presence, single-stitch construction, and selvedge denim with a clean white edge and red thread visible when the cuff is turned up.

Common counterfeit red flags

• Red Tab is printed rather than woven, or the letter "e" in "LEVI'S" is incorrectly sized.
• Arcuate arcs are asymmetric or the central intersection forms a cross rather than a diamond.
• Back patch embossing is shallow and the horses lack anatomical definition.
• Button-fly buttons are plain or stamped with text other than "LEVI'S."